How to cure Mitragyna Speciosa leaf harvest for red, green, and white strains.  – REMEMBER STEM VEIN COLOR DOES NOT EQUAL END MATERIAL COLOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!With that out of the way curing is a drying method.
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1. Place clippings in brown paper bag first to remove majority of moisture. The dry material will be cured GREEN. Do not stack leaves ruffle them up spread them out.

2. Take your dried green cure out in a few days and put it in a clear plastic bag with one end cracked open in bright intense light to create a RED cure.

3. if you want a YELLOW/WHITE cure leave your green in very intense light outside of a plastic bag, or in a clear ziplock bag with one end open and very low humidity.
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Get the word “strain” out of your mind, in the Mitragyna Speciosa world the meaning of “Strain” is not anything like what it means in “cannabis culture”. “Kratom Strains” may or may not mean an exact genetic profile of a single clone line containing plants propagated for various rare beneficial traits.

Most likely your Kratom “Strain” is something a hard working honest processed flour vendor, or reseller came up with for marketing purposes.

In the live plant world if you’re looking for red bali plants or Green elephant plants, or even white Rhino plants you’re setting yourself up to get scammed.

Yes, there are clone lines that absolutely must maintain the same names, no matter how strange they sound, but there are only three documented in the USA. The three clone lines we maintain are well understood. Their names might get confused but the main thing is their place of origin. All current plants we sell have been genetically documented. We worked with a few friendly very kind university researchers who wanted nothing in return but to bring the community more information on how to grow these. Our trees now have digital DNA. We maintain them so you can also research them.

All other live plants sold in the USA and abroad are usually seedlings from indonesian seed. If you grew from seed your plant isn’t a Rifat, Bumblebee, or Pink Indo clone lines. Clones only come from cuttings.

Now that we have trained our brains off the word strain and have a better understanding of phenotypes we can learn how to create the color variations we want disregarding half thoughts noobie vendor myths and of course indo farmer myths.

To make it simpler from this point on I’ll only be calling variations of live plants “Phenotype” which is typically the same name as it’s clone line name if it is a clone. non clone lines would use the standard location based naming.

In the retail world of Kratom Cure material “strain” names are sometimes called “vendor names” Their product can be anything from anywhere, but honest vendors usually make some attempt to use The typical boring naming method format of 1.Place of manufacture, and 2. Cure color of flour material.

Some strains of flour harvest material can be randomly named this isn’t necessarily always bad. I have no info on how often vendors may rename for marketing, but as long as they’re not renaming live plant clone lines this doesn’t matter because harvest leaf cure material can have very different characteristics after it is cured.

(A beneficial attribute of this vendor marketing is If a new product has a defect the vendor knows what batch and can reject entire orders instead of having large quantities of polluted stock. To the consumer Kratom Strain “vendor names” help them recognize and disregard a bad brand especially if it’s manufactured incorrectly.) As a utilitarian I see value in vendor named strains.

Many “Strains” can come from the same plant, but each known phenotype of mitragyna has a very unique alkaloid content. So if we took 3 plants and the variety of colors from where the brown bag harvest starts at a dark green to every lighter shade down to red and down to orange and deeper still to bright peach and pinks and lighter colors down until yellow... how many strains???? I need a mathematician my head hurts =D

Therefore artistic interpretation by vendors of their processed flour product and it’s naming scheme is not a threat to the community because it is beneficial. Honest vendors should avoid marketing names like “Super maeng xxx da lava red Terminator waffle strain of absolute best etc etc..” because it just might cause confusion with K2 or other gas station branded chemically altered plant material. There is nothing wrong with a boring name.

You can buy any phenotype of plant and cure the material to red green or yellow/white Although the alkaloid content may be very different from a plant you are used to from indonesia if you try a plant from Thailand. Farmers don’t even use this color scale method as a method to determine if the plant has strong alkaloids. The method Farmers use to determine high alkaloids is bitterness of fresh leaves.

In the USA there are currently 3 distinct clone lines. Here I list their most common names with their stem vein dominance colors and region of origin.

Rifat (Red, yellow, green),Represents genetics from Thailand
Bumblebee (white, Green), Represents genetics from Malaysia.
Pink Indo (RED, Yellow), Represents genetics from indonesia.

The 4th variation of plants in the USA are from Wild grown seed (Vein could be anything and you can’t tell potency until they mature in a few months/years)

These are the steps I use to dry and cure.

I like to first place fresh leaves in to a brown paper bag. This removes the majority of the moisture. You can use a string box, or hang them up on string around your house if you like. I’m pretty utilitarian and feel that putting them in a paper bag and hanging them up in a window on a coat hanger clip is quick and easy method. You should ruffle up the leaves in a few days making sure there are no clumps of moist material in the center of your harvest pile bags.

Do not stack leaves up neatly put them in ruffled up and spread out.

No matter what color you want you first need to cure your material to a Green
start by putting fresh leaf material in Brown bag for a few days.

To make the Cure red you will need to put the green cured leaves into a clear plastic bag. (I highly suggest to cure them green first and not move on to this step if they are fresh or moist in the least bit.)

If you skip of removing the moisture in a brown paper bag, you will most likely end up with mold and a failed harvest. Leave one end of your clear ziplock open and put the bag in intense warm light.

To cure the material to a yellow or white Leave your leaves out in intense light to dry with no bag or open the bag up to create very low humidity

The light curing process can take a few days or weeks depending on Light intensity, Temperature and humidity in your area.

The artificial lighting test we ran took about 30-60 days. At 30 days color showed in most depending on the dominance of the leaf vein color. The leaf vein color can very in many of these depending on the PH humidity and nutrient availability.